Tuesday, April 26, 2011

My Last Night of My Study Abroad Excursion aka trying not to sob because I don't want to say good-bye!

Well here I am. Writing my last blog entry of my year abroad on my last night in Londontown. Technically I’m a bit outside the city, sitting in an airport hotel because I have an insanely early flight tomorrow morning. Perk? Its direct. Over the past month I have thought about posting another blog only to follow the thought with “but I’ve done nothing interesting and I’m really, really tired right now.” In short, it has been exhausting. From April 3rd until April 15th or so I was drowning in exams and pre-exam papers and finishing up the last of my book lists and writing assignments. At the same time everyone on my program and I were doing our best to soak up the last bits of London, the city by day and by night, as we could. It was a mad rush to get all our work done and spend as little time actually doing the work so we could do the last little bit of London exploration that remained on our to-do lists. The semester culminated in a wonderful tea-time farewell excursion near Green Park (“alight here for Buckingham Palace”) at a fancy schmancy teahouse/teastore. It was sad and scrumptious. Lucky for me, Priya had arrived from Seattle and was out in Cambridge crashing with some friends until I finished finals. We had an apartment subletting situation lined up in Dalston with another girl from my program. Now let me try to describe Dalston for you because I don’t think just saying “gritty” really explains it. Yes, I know I come from a white female privileged background with higher education as the standard and a bright future not so far out in front of me. But can I still tell you about the meth addict haggling us for money at the bus stop a block from our apartment with a bloody needle hospital instrument taped to her neck and a hospital band around her wrist, saying she needed money to get home, and then our second spotting of her a day later in our back alley talking to hmmm you decide who her conversation partner was. How about the fruit and vegetable market down the back alley from us where Priya would get semi-ripe mango and blackberries? I think there were about 4 1-pound shops between our walk from our apartment to the nearest train stop which was, by the way, no longer an underground station but an overground one. This was east London for real. Not even would the hipsters often venture this far north in attempt to prove their super significant street cred. It is a mainly Turkish and African neighborhood with kebab shops and two night clubs just a few blocks from our apartment, and a plethora of patterns, characters, and stands of all items (edible and non) lining Kingsland Road. Perhaps our apartment is inexpensive for London, but it was still weighty on the non-working student budget. But we were safe and lucky to find this place. So much better than staying in hostels, so much better than couchsurfing with my 4-months worth of luggage. It may have taken us almost an hour to get anywhere, but it was absolutely perfect for what we needed. We even got a cat to take care of!

We went to the Brick Lane markets, blues dancing, put on my last slam poetry open mic performance, visited the National Gallery, two trips to the Southbank Center, an interpretive dance performance, wonderful dinners, saw two musicals (Phantom of the Opera and Les Miserables) and one play (Clybourn Park), Hyde Park, Kenwood Estate, its gardens and its Rembrandts and Vermeers, walked along the Thames to see Big Ben, Parliament, and Westminster, a trip to my favorite blues club “Ain’t Nothing But the Blues” in Soho, stuffed ourselves with falafel and “chips,” visited the Victoria and Albert collection, Thai food, pierced my nose (maybe twice), the Courtauld Institute to say good-bye to my favorite Manet, wondered about how all that stuff at the British Museum from the rest of the world arrived in London, spent hours riding the tube and the buses (and waiting for them all to arrive!), explored my favorite markets in Camden, spent the day on the rocky beach of Brighton and received a reverse soccer-tan on my calves, bussed it out to Stonehenge and spent the long ride in deep conversation, laughed so much I was constantly hungry, crossed Abbey Road for the third time with pit-stop at platform 9 and 3/4, worked on my coupon card towards my free coffee at the beloved CafĂ© Nero (oh I shall miss you), ate the last of my disgusting Tesco 1 pound cheese and onion sandwiches, completed souvenir and present shopping, unsuccessfully tried to fight off some sort of cold and allergy combination of nastiness (think snot-machine), and then proceeded to write the longest list based paragraph in one sentence I have ever written. And that is where you find me.

Trying to imagine myself back in America, whether it be Chicago or Tacoma, is nearly impossible for me. I try to focus on all the people I have missed and am terribly excited to see because being back in America is one of the most depressing pieces of reality that is forcing me to get up at 5 a.m. tomorrow morning. I’m not quite sure how London has changed me but I do feel more sure of who I am. This has been an incredible year, living in both Milan and in London, traveling around and seeing as much of Europe as I possibly could. I don’t know what to quite say about it right now, this point of transition, in this somewhat limbo state on the night before I return. Yes I am more adventurous, outgoing, independent, and capable of handling myself in a strange location with minimal communication options (whether it be stranded in an airport or just unsure of how to navigate night-buses home). I don’t think I quite know where this year has truly left me. But here I am, wherever it is, better equipped for whatever life throws at me next.

Sunday, April 10, 2011

Adventures through a Winter Wonderland

the weekend crew, left to right: kaitlin, me, reesto's friend, reesto's girlfriend inca, reesto, reesto's sister liisa

square by the protestant church

Kaitlin and I at Suomenlinna, sea fortress ruins in the background

the ice in the water view from the ferry

Suomenlinna

More than Just Architecture in Helsinki, a Two Day Affair

Last Saturday I went to Helsinki. You may wonder why I would fly away from beautiful, sunny, and warming up London and into a snow covered, Scandinavian city on one of my last weekends in Europe. Good question, I thought as we landed on the runway in the early afternoon. Answer: my friend Kaitlin had a Finnish exchange student who lived with her for a year in high school. It was his birthday weekend and a perfect opportunity to visit not only a new city but also a new country for very inexpensive. Her exchange student, Reesto, met us at the airport and took us back to his apartment. On the way over he told us loads about Finnish politics, immigration issues, required army service, and the female Finnish president. When we got to his apartment, his sister and his friend were there munching on candy and popcorn. We hung out there for a little while, forcing everyone to speak in English so we could understand, and figuring out what to do. We ended up going downtown Helsinki, getting some standard falafel lunch, meeting up with his girlfriend, saw the main Protestant church, and getting a general feel for this cold, icy city. Then we decided to take a ferry through the frozen water (they have a special machine that goes through and breaks up the ice so that the ferries can get across) which made loud crunching and crashing noises as it pushed the ice chunks out of its way. The sea fortress is on the island Suomenlinna which is just off the coast and about a 15 minute ferry ride. We walked around through the sea fortress ruins, hung out on snowy hills, Kaitlin and I nearly toppled over a few times as we sunk to our knees, felt like we might never be warm again. It was a beautiful winter wonderland. We had three Helsinki-ers with us which was like having our own personal tour guides. Mainly they just told us how beautiful this place is in the summer, that it is an ideal picnic spot of many city-folk, and that we really should have come in the summer. They also told us about some of the island's history, pretty much all of which I've forgotten by now. I know, disappointing. We walked around for probably 2 and a half hours, ending up at the brewery by the ferry stop. We dragged are wet and chilled selves back onto the fairy, through the frozen water, and back through Helsinki to get to Reesto's apartment. Reesto ordered pizza for dinner, another one of his friends came, and the seven of us all just hung out in his two room apartment eating and drinking and comparing culture and music and all of that. They taught us all about salmiakki which is a sick joke of a candy. Its really popular in Helsinki and the sign of a true Finn. What is it you may ask. Well let me tell you. SALTED LICORICE. Yuck. Distgusting. They even have a liquor version of it. It is the nastiest thing ever.

Anyways, at midnight Reesto turned 22 and we went out for a small night on Helsinkitown. The next morning we got up around 10 or so. Reesto's girlfriend made crepe-style pancakes that were fresh and delicious and hot. So good. We had a leisurely breakfast and then we went the Finnish National Art Museum. This made for a really wonderful afternoon. We got to see work by a range of artists, many influenced by the Realism movement and by the French Impressionists and Post-Impressionists. Apparently many Finnish artists went to Paris to study. They even had a piece by Van Gough and Cezanne! The interest in the Realism movement stemmed from the bloody Finnish civil war between upper classes and the proletariat, with communist influences. Hence the significance of the working, poor men, women, and children in fields in the art from the 1800's. Finland is a relatively new country, only gaining its independence from Russia in 1917. I think its fair to say that Kaitlin and I had no idea what to expect but we really, really enjoyed what we got to see. After we made our way through this museum we did a little souvenir shopping (I could not find a bracelet, very sad) and then went back to Reesto's to get our stuff and were on the bus to the airport around 5 in the afternoon.

This was a very relaxed and stress-free weekend in Helsinki. It may have been cold but we did not even open a map once (usually city maps are like our bible on weekend trips). We learned a lot of the current political climate, an emergence of a less scary Finnish version of the Tea Party, immigrants from Somalia, the Finnish depression post the collapse of the U.S.S.R., and how the most common crime statistically is drunk men murdering their wives or close friends. All from locals! We basically had our own tour guides. We spent very little money since we only paid for one meal (and then airport food), transportation, some drinks, and one museum entrance. It was a different kind of trip than the sightseeing marathon us study abroad students often find ourselves in. It was a trip to see people, experience a new culture first hand, hang out, and celebrate. It was a lovely, lovely way to relax before the start of finals.